Rwanda Beyond the Gorillas

Rwanda's two dry seasons — June to September, and December to February — are when the Volcanoes National Park trails firm up and the primates are easiest to find, whether that's mountain gorillas or the golden monkeys sharing the same slopes. The same drier ground makes Nyungwe's chimpanzee tracking and canopy walk more comfortable.

What surprises most first-time visitors is Akagera — a full savannah Big Five park in the east, and Lake Kivu on the other side of the country for a slower close. Kigali itself, with the Genocide Memorial, is usually where a Rwanda itinerary starts or ends rather than a place to rush through.